Friday, January 6, 2012

When it comes to gifts, the nose knows best

I JUST DON'T like Christmas shopping. My reasons are both simple and just: The stores are too crowded.

True enough, I could shop online — like much of America does these days — but I am more of the see-it, touch-it, feel-it, smell-it school of consumerism. And it's the smelling part that I wanted to share with you today.

English: Human olfactory system. 1: Olfactory ...Image via WikipediaWhen I was a kid I was always much too busy doing important things, like injecting vodka into oranges for the big New Year's fete, to do my Christmas shopping anytime prior to roughly 8 p.m. on Christmas Eve. That left me with very little latitude in the area of product selection. Generally, the only places remaining open at my selected shopping time were drugstores and Chinese restaurants.

Being one who always wanted to opt for the gift that keeps on giving, I decided against the Egg Foo Yung for mom and a nice Moo Goo Gai Pan for dad. It left the drugstore. So, my dad always got a cellophane-wrapped Christmas edition of English Leather, and my mom a lovely half-gallon jug of whatever $10 perfume had just arrived from Paris that day.

They were both very kind. Our toilet smelled great for a couple of days after I had bestowed my mom's perfume upon her, and the neighbor's cat had that come-hither musky smell of English Leather for weeks.

So, when my wife asked me what I wanted for Christmas this year it took me back.

"Just get me a bottle of cologne," I said.

Knowing that, were my wife to actually make that purchase, it would sit on my bathroom shelf like every other cologne that I have ever owned until it became distilled enough that I could guzzle it on the rocks with a touch of tonic water and a squeeze of lime.

It did, however, send me running to the Internet to see what this millennium's version of Old Spice and English Leather actually looked like. And, do you know what? It's just not your father's musk ox anymore.

Come to find out that men's colognes are reviewed — obviously, by people with noses the size of vacuum cleaners and a penchant for hyperbole never before seen outside the WWF.

Consider this review of Eau de LeCoste, the Blanc Edition: "The essence of tuberose, ylang-ylang and olibanum gives off a quietly dignified masculinity."

Who knew? My experience had always been mixing ylang-ylang with olibanum could give you warts. I say this wrapped securely in my quiet dignified masculinity.

It also seems that men's cologne is once again in the process of evolving. No longer is the "bold, craggy, masculine smell" of the '80s acceptable. As we all know, that gave way to the "dry, green, aromatic take on rose and leather — the animalic note" that fell from fashion in the '90s. We are now headlong into the "bold but far too poised to be read as brash or cross" era of male smellage.

So here — slashed from the pages of the latest reviews of what women want in wafting — are the good and bad of olfactory perception.

Jublilation XXV by Amouage: Apparently the gold standard of what women want their man to emit in 2011. It took XXIV tries before perfecting "a blend of patchouli-incense accord with opopnax cedar and a hint of oud. A perfect mixture between sensuality and masculinity."

I looked up "oud" — it is a pear-shaped, stringed instrument. But, apparently, it really smells great.

Compare that with one man's review of Acqua di Gio pour Homme by Giorgio Armani. "The most stomach-turning fragrance my nose has ever experienced."

Ouch, Giorgio — back to the musk ox, man.

That was a cruel review and blatantly obvious to me that the writer has never been in my son's room.

Armed with these facts, I am reporting back to my wife that I do not want cologne for Christmas. Just a simple order of Egg Foo Yung.
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Thursday, January 5, 2012

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The essence of masculinity

Stars, manly overtones and sex appeal all play a part in the men's fragrance game, writes Adam Tschorn.
What should a man smell like?
This is not an inquiry to be undertaken lightly - particularly at this time of the year, when the gauntlet of parties and events that stretches from December into the new year is destined to put the fragrance profiles of near strangers beneath our noses as surely as stockings dangle from the fireplace.
It's a timely question for other reasons. One-quarter of all annual sales in the prestige fragrance category take place in the two weeks before Christmas, according to the NPD Group, an American market research company.

Consider that men's fragrance sales are growing faster than women's (12 per cent compared with 9 per cent for the first nine months of this year over the same period last year, according to NPD). And that Gucci Guilty Pour Homme topped the list of both men's and women's fragrance launches this year. Clearly, attempts to divine the olfactory essence of masculinity are a matter of both dollars and scents.
Gucci storeImage via WikipediaOne way to answer the question is to look at what men (or the people who shop for them) are buying. The five best-selling men's fragrances between January and October of this year were Giorgio Armani's Acqua di Gio Pour Homme (in the No.1 spot), Chanel's Bleu de Chanel, Gucci Guilty Pour Homme, Armani Code and Dolce&Gabbana's Light Blue Pour Homme, according to NPD.
What do all of these fragrances have in common - besides abundant references to the colour blue and things aquatic? They all have scent profiles grounded in a combination of wood (including but not limited to forests full of cedar, sandalwood, juniper, oak moss and musk wood) and spice (practically an entire rack of Sichuan pepper, ginger, bergamot, coriander and pink peppercorns).

Pull the common elements from those bestsellers, says the managing editor for online fragrance publication The Perfume Magazine, Mark David Boberick, and a guy can start to get a whiff of what the everyman most likely smells like. ''Nowadays it's all about the aquatics mixed with the woods,'' Boberick says. ''Scents like Bulgari Aqua are a good example. It's aquatic but has a woody base. And Bleu de Chanel is the same way.''
Does that mean Gucci Guilty Pour Homme (which I found redolent of cedar-planked orange slices dipped in glacier water) experienced the best-selling fragrance launch of the year because its chemical cocktail approximates quintessential manliness in some unique and different way?
Boberick doesn't think so. Gucci Guilty Pour Homme ''smells like a lot of other men's fragrances with maybe a slight twist'', he says. ''It's good stuff but it's not groundbreaking. What probably put it on the list was an exceptional advertising campaign and a designer luxury label.''
The designer luxury label is the Italian fashion house of Gucci, of course, and the exceptional advertising campaign he's referring to includes a fever dream of a commercial directed by writer-artist Frank Miller (who wrote the comic book series 300). It features leather jacket-wearing actor Chris Evans (Captain America) roaring through darkened city streets on a fire-belching motorcycle on his way to an assignation with Evan Rachel Wood (The Wrestler, The Ides of March).
Gucci's ad campaign is just the latest to rely on Hollywood firepower to promote a new men's fragrance. When Chanel's Bleu de Chanel launched last year, commercials starring French actor Gaspard Ulliel had none other than Martin Scorsese in the director's chair and a Rolling Stones song on the soundtrack.
Celebrity affiliation - via advertising campaigns or celebrity-branded product - has long been a key way to create the emotional connection and resonance needed to sell consumers bottles of scented liquid. Matthew McConaughey doffs his shirt for Dolce&Gabbana's The One for Men; James Franco was the face of Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme; and country singer Tim McGraw had a hit with his own branded fragrance, to mention but a few.
''A celebrity endorsement is a shorthand way of saying it's a scent of significance,'' Boberick says. ''In this age of the internet and the fixation on celebrity, for someone who isn't thinking too much about it, the idea that they might smell like a celebrity - or what a celebrity wears or puts their name on - is an easy way out. It's acceptable.''
Another way to answer the question of what a man should smell like - at least when the goal is attracting a mate - is to determine what smells cause the greatest increase in sexual arousal. This is what Dr Alan Hirsch and his colleagues at the Chicago-based Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation endeavoured to do in the mid-1990s.
The odour that resulted in the highest level of arousal among females was a combination of sweets and cucumber, according to its findings. (Men, it found, responded best to a combination of lavender and pumpkin pie.) But Hirsch says those findings come with some caveats.
''There are certainly trends in scents,'' Hirsch says. ''So, yes, it's possible that something else - say, the smell of cotton candy or the new iPhone - could cause greater sexual arousal. You also have to realise that humans can detect anywhere from 10,000 to 30,000 different odours. Clearly we couldn't have even begun to test all of them, so it is a distinct possibility that other odours would have an effect - maybe even a greater effect.''
We may not be any closer to answering our inquiry about what a man should smell like but Hirsch offers some guidance about what a man probably shouldn't smell like: ''Cherries, charcoal barbecue smoke and men's cologne were the things found to be the biggest turn-offs to women,'' he says.


Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/style/the-essence-of-masculinity-20111214-1ouux.html#ixzz1ibv8Dfjo
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